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How to use a Dermaroller safely

Updated: Mar 26, 2023

Dermarolling can be a fantastic tool in your skincare routine (if used safely and properly). It rejuvenates your skin by evening out your complexion, reducing the appearance of acne scars and discolouration, fades fine lines and enhances product absorption.

There are different needle lengths so it’s important to choose the correct length for your skin goals.

0.1mm, 0.25mm, 0.3mm are going to boost absorption of skincare product such as peptides, hyaluronic acid and collagen. Some people recommend using a topical vitamin C but personally after experimenting on myself I would say avoid as it can cause irritation. I found my skin to feel itchy and hot, and I have quite a tolerant skin type.

0.5mm is going to be ideal to stimulate collagen production and reduce the appearance of superficial marks.

For deeper scars and wrinkles then a 0.75mm - 1mm is a better choice, but I would suggest to start on a 0.5mm beforehand.

Anything over 1mm my advice is to speak to a skin therapist beforehand and have a consultation, they may suggest a course of medical micro needling with a trained specialist is more suited to your requirements.

Who is Dermarolling not suitable for?

Eczema and psoriasis skins should avoid Dermarolling.

Skins that suffer from acne should not use the roller to avoid spreading the bacteria to other areas of the face whilst also avoiding breaking the delicate inflamed skin.

If you are using very active skincare ingredients such as retinol these should be stopped a few days before using the dermaroller in case of irritation.

How do I keep my Dermaroller clean?

Clean yourself….

Before you begin with your dermaroller cleanse your skin of makeup and daily grime making sure your skin is properly clean and ready to be rolled. As a final step of the cleansing routine tone to balance the skin’s PH.

Clean the Dermaroller…

Always keep the plastic container which the dermaroller arrives in as this will keep it clean and sterile between uses. Each time you use your derma roller ensure that you clean in cleaning solution. I use denture cleaners which are cheap and easy to use. Dissolve the tablets in water and submerge your dermaroller leaving for 20-30 mins. Afterwards air dry (without putting the needles back onto a dirty surface) and pop back in the plastic container.

This must be done every time you use it! And please don’t go share It with friends, lovers or whoever else you may think is in need of a bit of micro needling, this is for your use only.

After the 10 to 15 use it’s time to replace with a new one.

How do I use my Dermaroller...

You want to create micro channels evenly spread across the face. Try not to put pressure on the roller, just allow it to gently glide across the skin. I always roll at nighttime, when I know that I can go to sleep and let my body heal whilst simultaneously not exposing myself to environmental stressors like UV damage and pollution.

First roll horizontally going backwards and forwards 3 times.

Then working on the same patch of skin roll vertically 3 times, and finish diagonally. Then move up to the next section.

Work on the cheeks, the chin, the forehead.

Go delicately around the eye area where you have thinner skin and the nose area.

Make sure when you change direction you lift the roller and then place back down on the skin. Never twist the roller - think about shaving, you wouldn’t twist a razor mid shave and not expect a little cut to appear.

The next step is adding some lovely actives such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides or a hydrating sheet mask.

How often should I use my dermaroller?

That depends on the size of the needle. As a rule of thumb…

0.25mm Every other day

0.5mm 1 to 3 times per week

0.75-1mm Every 2 weeks

The Results

I always wake up the day after rolling with the feeling of tighter skin, it feels almost like a very light sunburn. After a week of rolling you should start to notice a difference….after a couple of months then your skin will be glowing.


This blog does not provide medical advice It is intended for informational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. All these dishes may contain allergens.

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